Fibre glass panels for a Fiat Uno
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Topic URL: http://sfconline.org.uk/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=2635
Printed on: 21 Feb 2025
Topic:
Topic author: Andy97
Subject: Fibre glass panels for a Fiat Uno
Posted on: 23 Apr 2007 17:10:03
Message:
Hi. First post. I have a Fiat Uno race car that I'd like to lighten further. Any one know where I may be able to get Fibreglass front wings and bonnet from (do such things exist?), as well as plexi glass window kit?
Thanks
Andy
Replies:
Reply author: julian
Replied on: 23 Apr 2007 17:38:22
Message: Welcome to the club Andy!
For polycarb windows I would suggest airedale race components (also know as airedale race parts), they do some good deals and good quality parts.
Panels are likely to be harder to come by - the regular Uno racers in the UK (fiat racing challenge) had to run standard metal panels so never developed specialised body parts. You may have more luck looking at european suppliers. The danger is that TUV certified parts tend to be just as heavy as the metal parts they replace so be careful!
You could always have moulds prepared yourself - I would hazard a guess and say you are looking at between £800 and £1000 for a set of moulds and the first set of panels. The cost of further panels is obviously much cheaper and you don't need to worry so much about sourcing the next set when they get broken.
Reply author: Andy97
Replied on: 23 Apr 2007 17:57:14
Message: quote: Originally posted by julian
Welcome to the club Andy!
For polycarb windows I would suggest airedale race components (also know as airedale race parts), they do some good deals and good quality parts.
Panels are likely to be harder to come by - the regular Uno racers in the UK (fiat racing challenge) had to run standard metal panels so never developed specialised body parts. You may have more luck looking at european suppliers. The danger is that TUV certified parts tend to be just as heavy as the metal parts they replace so be careful!
You could always have moulds prepared yourself - I would hazard a guess and say you are looking at between £800 and £1000 for a set of moulds and the first set of panels. The cost of further panels is obviously much cheaper and you don't need to worry so much about sourcing the next set when they get broken.
Thanks Julian. My car is not a Fiat Challenge spec car; it runs in the Classic Sports Car Clubs "Tin Tops" series for 40 min, 2 driver races so can be modified a fair bit. the engine is a screamer and the car handles brilliantly but lighter weight would help even more. I am not surprised by the figures you quote and it probably isn't worth spending that sort of money (I only paid £2K for the car!) but may be some plexi glass windows and a plastic tail gate would be a reasonable compromise. I am right in thinking that Fiat did a plastic tailgate for the Uno turbo, aren't I?
Reply author: Martin
Replied on: 23 Apr 2007 19:09:26
Message: Yes Julian Cann had wings and wing extensions made in light weight plastic during the early to mid nineties.... but as JB said I think the bonnet would need to be made in carbon fibre to achieve any weight reduction.... because the GRP versions would have been just as heavy. I have seen two Mk2 examples with a carbon fibre bonnet on photos - but never in real life.
For the bonnets it is more usual to take out some bracing and drill it with a pattern of 30mm and 20mm holes.
If you are allowed to use the turbo tailgate (Its the Mk1 turbo tailgate - the Mk2 is useless) do so. This is plastic but although there is no weight gain it is more aerodynamic.... resulting in about 2-3mph on top speed. Don't extend the spoiler too far, or if you have the time experiment & try it - extending the roof spoiler too far makes it stick into the turbulence/ drag. It is a good place to experiment.... but check your regs first....
Also the Mk2 front panels bonnet and wings are more aerodynamic than the Mk1.... but it unlikely you would be able to get away with a mix unless the scrutineers are asleep.
Also use thin plastic to cut down the door weight on both the panel and the frame (providing you are running with sidebar protection on the roll cage... but you'll need to keep a door card in ally to get through scrutineering. There was a plastic door frame made in Italy - but they were expensive and pretty heavy too.... I can find the links if you want to check it out. But weigh your doors - you'll find it worth the time to mod them!
Airidale Race Components replacement side window set is well worth having - so much so I'd recommend it as a high priority. Use the Search on the top right of this forum page type in 'Airedale' and you'll find the links with previous discussions.
If you need more information for using other body parts - just ask, and use the forum search for previous discussions too!
Reply author: Andy97
Replied on: 23 Apr 2007 21:17:47
Message: Folks, thanks for your help. The regs are very free in CSCC "Tin Tops"- ie you can do anything you want within the appropriate engine capacity class & MSA safety regs. So a mix of panels would be possible if it really was worth it. My car has a standard body shell (TBH I am not sure whether its a Mk1 or Mk 2) & glass but an excellent (Rollcentre) cage (including side safety bars) & a great engine; its very stiff and handles well but the gear change (particularly from 3rd to 2nd) is awful! (Despite the gearbox being rebuilt and a new clutch). It went well at Snetterton on saturday and I overtook 5-6 1600 & 2 litre cars (Metros, Peugots & Maestros) & had a great battle with another Maestro which I managed to "win". Started 27th and last after practice maladies (engine mounting bolt came out!), finished 15th out of 20. The most fun I have ever had with my clothes on.
Reply author: Andy97
Replied on: 24 Apr 2007 07:48:43
Message: Further to my last, I have been trawling round the internet (isn't Google a wonderful thing?) and found references to Hormann Body kits. Now I don't want to "Pimp my Ride" but anyone know anything about these? Are they plastic for a start & lighter than the standard wings? I would just want to fit front wings & not necessarily the front spoiler arrangement (unless this was a distinct advantage). How much wider are the wings? Don't want the wheels to be lost in there!!!!
Thanks, Andy
Reply author: anonymous1
Replied on: 24 Apr 2007 10:06:30
Message:
Reply author: julian
Replied on: 24 Apr 2007 10:27:02
Message: quote: Originally posted by Andy97
Further to my last, I have been trawling round the internet (isn't Google a wonderful thing?) and found references to Hormann Body kits. Now I don't want to "Pimp my Ride" but anyone know anything about these? Are they plastic for a start & lighter than the standard wings? I would just want to fit front wings & not necessarily the front spoiler arrangement (unless this was a distinct advantage). How much wider are the wings? Don't want the wheels to be lost in there!!!!
Thanks, Andy
The Hormann kit is very much a cosmetic body kit featuring rather substantial swept wheel arch extensions - sort of like a dali-esque interpretation of the rear haunches of a 80s Testarossa.
Weight saving is definitely not a feature of the kit!
Reply author: Andy97
Replied on: 24 Apr 2007 10:37:17
Message: quote: Originally posted by sumplug
Hi Andy. In all honesty, the Uno wings are pretty thin, so light as they are. Fitting plastic will only save you a small amount. Is it worth all the hassle?? I would concentrate on making the car more aerodynamic by covering the underneath and looking at front spoiler and splitters etc to improve airflow. Would be nice to know your engine spec as well, to see what you have.
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OK, thanks. Probably not worth the hassle, particularly as I have just been quoted £1500 for moulds & 2 x doors and 2 x front wings. Just wanted to know what was possible. The body kit idea was also a long shot - I certainly don't want the car to look like it belongs to a 17 year old spotty youth with dubious taste & a fine collection of FHM & car styling mags! Might just go the plexi glass route and get my drill out. Rear Tail gate, bonnet & doors seem heavy to me, but presumably this was because they had to be standard in the previous series it ran in.
Its the ex Neil Smith car. Great fun but Neil could obviously drive it far faster than I can.
Reply author: julian
Replied on: 24 Apr 2007 10:55:47
Message: *That* car?
Yes i am quite familiar with it - I used to race against a few years ago and I was always amazed at just how capable the car and driver were.
Reply author: anonymous1
Replied on: 24 Apr 2007 11:21:08
Message:
Reply author: Martin
Replied on: 24 Apr 2007 11:39:11
Message: quote: Originally posted by Andy97
Folks, thanks for your help. The regs are very free in CSCC "Tin Tops"- ie you can do anything you want within the appropriate engine capacity class & MSA safety regs. So a mix of panels would be possible if it really was worth it. My car has a standard body shell (TBH I am not sure whether its a Mk1 or Mk 2) & glass but an excellent (Rollcentre) cage (including side safety bars) & a great engine; its very stiff and handles well but the gear change (particularly from 3rd to 2nd) is awful! (Despite the gearbox being rebuilt and a new clutch). It went well at Snetterton on saturday and I overtook 5-6 1600 & 2 litre cars (Metros, Peugots & Maestros) & had a great battle with another Maestro which I managed to "win". Started 27th and last after practice maladies (engine mounting bolt came out!), finished 15th out of 20. The most fun I have ever had with my clothes on.
Which engine are you running with? I take it it isn't one of the turbos!
Gear changes in almost every Fiat should be amongst the best you've ever tried.... certainly up to the best Fords. Sounds like something is going wrong with the selection mechanism. Use the remote gear change setup from a turbo... this can get bent from being forced - and I'd guess you have problems with this. Make sure the gearbox oil is full, and the detent springs and ball bearings have been put back in the right place. OR you have a Colotti/ Italian straight cut box - and it isn't fitting the bell housing well (quite common).... hence the clutch won't work well... can you post a pic of the box bell housing and friction plate/ flywheel?
Make sure you take advice on engine mods & servicing from someone who knows Italian race engines - and not some generalist brought up on 'UK' designs - they are not the same. Change the oil frequently and don't skimp on it or the filter (Helix competition. is good if the engine is not warn). Do not allow any leaks especially at the rear crank seal (with high race revs) - fix immediately.
Most engine problems show up at the camshaft quickly - get used to inspection/ smell of the cam visible from the oil filler and the oil catch tank - do this after every session. The sohc engine has distributor and oil pump drive off the cam.... Listen for noise here and check the backlash/ meshing on both. The distrubutor drive (in either position) can run dry and needs lubrication at high race revs. A couple of drops of engine oil will do it.
The Mk1 and Mk2 are quite different to look at - but share the same suspension mounting points and basic body shell. The mechanical layout is the same.
 This is the Mk1 Turbo - with its tailgate roof spoiler.......
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This is a Mk2 - the 'spoiler' is moved under the rear window - in this case an aftermarket roof spoiler has been added.......
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This is Neil's ex.......
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Here is an example of Julian Cann's light weight wheel arch extensions..... the work to fit is more substantial than it looks - with the wings 'flaired' and cut back so that the wider 15inch wheels will never touch the arch in rally competition.............
Reply author: Martin
Replied on: 24 Apr 2007 11:54:15
Message: quote:
Started 27th and last after practice maladies (engine mounting bolt came out!), finished 15th out of 20. The most fun I have ever had with my clothes on.
You must Locktite all the engine and gearbox mounting bolts!!
The car will most likely be using the diesel versions mounting rubbers.
You must get all the engine notes you can off Neil - and use the same engine builder..... this car has provenance - so don't just throw it away if you bend it!!
Reply author: Andy97
Replied on: 24 Apr 2007 12:07:34
Message: Martin, thanks for the input - its definately the same car. How do I post pics on here? I have some of us racing at Snetterton this weekend.
Not sure what the problem is with the gear change - its very stiff, particularly from 3rd to 2nd & I miss the gear, or find 4th more times than not. We've had the gear box rebuilt (can't remember the chaps name but he was reputed to be a gear box specialist who had rprepared & raced Unos himself) but its only a bit, not much, better.
Next race at Brands Hatch on Sunday 6 May, if anyone's interested.
Reply author: Martin
Replied on: 24 Apr 2007 12:25:34
Message: Posting images here....... Use a free site that allows you to keep your own album online all the time - like photobucket, image shop, etc - sign on and post your images there...... then you copy and paste that image address in your post here.... 
On using wider tyres - note that Wayne's blue UT on the top photo has had all the plastic removed from around the wheel arch, and the wheel arch has been 'rolled and flaired' - this will cost you about £30 per corner at the right place - and a much better option than plastic arches.... cheeper and lighter.... and in the case of damage more easily repaired.
This is another car using 15 inch rims to get bigger brake calipers on the front. The white one in the garage has the standard 13 inch rims on it.
Reply author: Andy97
Replied on: 24 Apr 2007 12:47:33
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All good close stuff. I had overtaken 2 or 3 Maestros inc the black & orange one but he would not leave me alone! Kept catching right up under braking but I was faster down the straights. I came out on top in the end. My first ever saloon car race, although I have had a few single seater races without anywhere near so much fun (I am always at the back).
Don't know much about the spec of the car to be honest but its a 1300 non turbo. Wheels are 14 inch Lancia things with Yoko A0048s (regs require List 1A/1B "road" tyres).
Ah coaching note on posting images - you need to tell the software here its an image address - you can either press the button above the message form when you type - or put [IMG...... /IMG] either side of the image address ( I've left off the the two inner brackets so it doesn't expect an image here... if you edit your own post here you'll see what I did to yours
Reply author: julian
Replied on: 24 Apr 2007 14:32:43
Message: Around Snetterton the Uno should be marvellously quick, the speed that car can carry through the corners is awe inspiring and while that back straight is where you can get the power down if you have it the rest of the circuit owes more to handling than most people realise.
Braking was always the one point the car suffered on - it takes a lot of bravery to leave the braking late as it feels very unstable as soon as you come off the power (from memory) and certainly didn't look like it wanted to brake in a straight line (having been behind the car a few times). Martin has a degree of insight in the matter as he owns a very similar car and I'm sure he can detail all the foibles.
Reply author: Andy97
Replied on: 24 Apr 2007 14:49:02
Message: Must admit that the car felt quick to me around the twisty bits & it was faster in a straight line than several others but I am not brave/ good enough to exploit the cars capabilities properly so I certainly wasn't "marvellously quick". I should have been able to brake much later and harder than I did but I could not convince myself! Brakes felt a bit spongy despite bleeding them. My lap times were 3 secs slower than my race partner but my excuse is that I was passing people and battling/ defending against the Maestro (and also missing the 3rd to 2nd shift at one of the 2 chicanes regularly)!! I can see what you mean about the car being unstable but it felt secure to me compared to my single seater, It just grips and goes. Great fun.
Reply author: Martin
Replied on: 24 Apr 2007 15:12:28
Message: Nice shots A! Those Maestros are tanks... you should run rings around them in the corners! Did Neil say anything about the type of tyres he used.... and can you use slicks, it makes a big difference to this Uno (bar talk with Neil in the past)?
There are a whole host of tuning options - but best to find out the detail of your engine spec first.
What is the engine capacity of your class?
One of the big limitations of the Auto-Italia production classes was what you were(n't) allowed to do with the suspension - mounts and mods... so Neil had to compensate for a lack of camber change especially on the rear, you have no such constraints and from a well sorted package like this one you'll be able to experiment.
By the way on what Sump was saying about meshing the floor - you would need to have the fuel tank completely isolated from the car's interior in a roll..... for 'two box' saloons like the Uno they accept that the tank filter and sender access should be closed off and fuel tight - but this makes the boot floor into part of a fire wall so you can't put holes in it without building another box above to isolate the driver from the tank... in this case it would close out the boot..... it would also pull fumes inside.
The side/ rear glass and doors with poly carb. makes a big difference... but after a back window nearly killed (frisby-like) a marshal three years ago the MSA may have changed the securing rules again or banned the rear screen replacement (I can't remember).
Reply author: julian
Replied on: 24 Apr 2007 15:46:47
Message: It took me a full day at Snetterton in the Punto I was running to really find the limits of what could be done with it. The trick with cars such as these (as always with small FWD cars) is to keep your right foot in. Left foot braking for stability where needed and only where you *have* to scrub speed do you back off.
It takes a fair degree of bravery to really attack some of the corners but you soon realise that as long as the engine is under load the car will go pretty much where you want it to. The rear of the car will move around a lot and it takes some getting used to but you soon learn to ignore the sensation of yaw that normally means you about to leave the circuit backwards and instead concentrate on what is happening with the front end.
The reality is that if the backend is going to breakaway properly then there is almost nothing you can do to correct it once it happens. When these cars bite they really are quite vicious.
By all means replace the side windows with poly carb and consider the rear window but beyond that you'll find that the car is already very light and near the limits of what can actually be achieved without resorting to major customisation and exotic composites.
Martin - Neil sold the car years ago when I first started running the turbo in the X1/9 and I doubt he has had much input on the car since. He's been driving a 156 ever since although i believe he has a Ferrari entered in the LMA series this year. The car always ran on 1b tyres and the grip afforded by them was quite astounding - easily comparable to a basic slick tyre.
Reply author: Martin
Replied on: 24 Apr 2007 16:27:45
Message: quote: Originally posted by Andy97
Must admit that the car felt quick to me around the twisty bits & it was faster in a straight line than several others but I am not brave/ good enough to exploit the cars capabilities properly so I certainly wasn't "marvellously quick". I should have been able to brake much later and harder than I did but I could not convince myself! Brakes felt a bit spongy despite bleeding them. My lap times were 3 secs slower than my race partner but my excuse is that I was passing people and battling/ defending against the Maestro (and also missing the 3rd to 2nd shift at one of the 2 chicanes regularly)!! I can see what you mean about the car being unstable but it felt secure to me compared to my single seater, It just grips and goes. Great fun.
Yes IF the car was left in the same trim state as Neil used to race, then it has been designed for like a single seater, for accurate positioning and as little braking as possible. He used the weight transfer under braking to 'unstick' the rear end (aided by heavier than normal rear brake bias, front shockers set on rebound and rear shockers set on compression).
This gives you a very stable car under power, when the rears are pushed onto the tarmac & grip. When you brake you lose 80%+ of the rear grip... so that the car can get through the apex area very quickly indeed, but only has grip again under acceleration. It is quite impossible for a normal road driver to appreciate this - or turn it to an advantage. So if you are quick and accurate on the controls, and have the confidence to trust the car to re-grip 'on demand' you can take sharp corners about twice as fast as with the steering alone. It also has a side effect - that you can come into corners on a 'narrower' line under blocking, yet recover through the apex and exit early under oversteer conditions... without any side slip. For longer corners you can left foot brake keeping the revs up enough to retain rear traction.
You need to practice somewhere until your 'racing brain' gets the message that not braking a lot, then accelerating before apexes is not at all a form of suicide.. It's critical that you have confidence in the grip levels first - so as I've said - try and get hold of some slicks, mark out some bends with cones on some old airfield concrete and try it out until you're happy with what the car can actually do (It has won championships like this!).
Get in contact with the engine builder too!
Reply author: Andy97
Replied on: 24 Apr 2007 16:31:58
Message: Thanks for all your comments, all very helpful in trying to understand what's going on. The car runs on Yokohama A0048 List 1A "treaded" tyres in "Tin Tops". I think that Neil ran the car on Dunlop slicks (at least I have got a set that came with the car which I can't use). I think that the car "disappeared" for a couple of years after Neil sold it. Not sure what happened to it but I am reasonably sure that it is in the same state as when Neil had it and we have done nothing to the set up since.
BTW, the steering column seems a bit upright, and the wheel therefore a bit high & flat for my liking - almost like a bus driving position; do you know if it's possible to change the angle of the steering column easily?
Reply author: julian
Replied on: 24 Apr 2007 17:04:28
Message: Neil did indeed run slicks (my mistake) - it was normal to see him sat outside his transporter between race and practice with a heatgun applied to the tyres to strip the dead marble rubber and make sure the fresh rubber was exposed. I'd forgotten all about that little detail (maybe I've been away for too long). The 1b tyres were kept as intermediates and they too saw a fair amount of usage.
I don't remember ever seeing it on 1a tyres at any time.
I know the car was passed on to another auto italia racer when Neil sold it (the name escapes me right now) who gave it to his fiancee, Jackie, to try out as a rookie. It took her about a day of testing, a practice session and half a race to get to grips with it and then she was off with lap times tumbling at a remarkable rate. As far as I know though it changed hands again after that.
We spotted it for sale again earlier this year and I'm guessing you were the lucky buyer.
Reply author: Martin
Replied on: 24 Apr 2007 17:35:37
Message: Here is another ambiguity of mine from above............ "So if you are quick and accurate on the controls, and have the confidence to trust the car to re-grip 'on demand' you can take sharp corners about twice as fast as with the steering alone."
What I mean is your time in seconds through the corner is halved.... not that your entry speed is double normal!!
You must get used to trusting the car's ability when apparently about to go spin! Warm slicks on a practice session away from anything damaging will give you confident learning fastest!!!
If you want we could turn up somewhere with a large flat concrete area and compare the cars..........
Reply author: anonymous1
Replied on: 24 Apr 2007 17:55:24
Message:
Reply author: nyssa7
Replied on: 24 Apr 2007 20:49:28
Message: quote: Originally posted by julian
I know the car was passed on to another auto italia racer when Neil sold it (the name escapes me right now) who gave it to his fiancee, Jackie, to try out as a rookie. It took her about a day of testing, a practice session and half a race to get to grips with it and then she was off with lap times tumbling at a remarkable rate. As far as I know though it changed hands again after that.
The names you are looking for are Westley Evans and Joanne Farby. Jo did just the one race, the last ever Auto Italia race at Oulton Park in 2003
Reply author: Andy97
Replied on: 24 Apr 2007 20:53:13
Message: Thanks, good to be able to fill in the cars history.
Reply author: nyssa7
Replied on: 24 Apr 2007 21:40:29
Message: I was offered the Uno for that last race at Oulton, glad I didn't take Neil up on it as Jo broke the gearbox the day before in testing. Aside from the efforts they had to go to even find a gearbox, I just couldn't have afforded one if I'd done it
Would be good to see it back out again
Reply author: Martin
Replied on: 24 Apr 2007 22:29:15
Message: I suspect most of the major mechanicals are semi-exotic so the gearbox may be an Italian race item.... and then parts of the engine may also be an expensive import.... poor gear selection may be to do with mixing standard and exotic parts.
As already posted - I'd advise getting more info.... don't expect to be able to 'throw in any old replacement' and get equivalent performance.
Looking again at your pics & stickers - you aren't using AVO shockers are you?
Can you post a picture of the steering wheel position, and how it is attached to the dash frame.... it doesn't sound like a standard setup....
This sort of Uno setup was worth about two to four seconds a lap to Neil depending on the circuit. But it is partly due to the constraints of the production regs in the Auto-Italia championship. It can completely cure the inherent understeer characteristics of the racing Uno and Punto - especially out of the corner under power. The downside - if it is one - is you must be very smooth, especially with the throttle.... and accurate. In general you will be 'charged' by late brakers on entry but will be able to attack them from before the apex.... and while they are trying to get grip & traction on exit, you will be able to select your exit line... while still attacking with perfect traction.
I'm trying to give a picture of the difference.... in a normal saloon setup, you brake and feed in lock at turn in, then wait for the cars reaction up to the apex... you might get three or four chances to adjust the lock and/or throttle on your chosen line in.. then accelerate away. The Uno is lighter... your turn-in point is much later and the direction of rear brake away triggered by one light throttle lift..... and on it again in one move. So your time in the corners is more like a single seater.... an impression of throttle dominated not steering dominated cornering. Brake heavily and the car will want to spin - you have to control it with the steering and it feels like balancing on a tight rope.....
its the same philosophy as a modern jet dog fighter - tighter turning by being unstable in the turn... effectively falling out of it. Very rewarding.
Reply author: Andy97
Replied on: 25 Apr 2007 07:05:40
Message: Hi all. I have e-mailed Neil to see if I can get more info, inc the engine builder's details etc. But it is several years since Neil last saw the car (2002, maybe?). In my last e-mail with Neil he explained that the car was running a standard Uno Turbo gearbox with a lower ratio final drive from a 1.0 litre and that it also had a 5th gear from a mk 1 lancia delta turbo (which is an abarth lower ratio gear kit, apparently). We have had the gear box rebuilt since then but just replaced some existing components like for like and reassembled. Not sure exactly what was replaced as it was done elsewhere. And I guess that if the gear box was replaced for that last race it will not necessarily be in the form that Neil ran it in. Nevertheless, 1st & 2nd seem to be quite low and I didn't use 5th at Snetterton.
The gearchange problem may just be me - I think that I am rushing it but there is a reasonably large distance for the lever to travel between 3rd & 2nd & when I was trying to be quick I don't think that I moved the lever far enough over to the left before trying to slot it into 2nd. That said the change does feel as though something is constrained in the linkage and that I am fighting it rather than a problem in the box itself.
I understand your point about being "charged by late breakers" - that's how I felt on saturday but I thought that I was still braking too early. The speed through the corner & the exit speed seemed good, though. The car does move around a bit but its not like my single seater which, when it decides to go, really lets go....and usually without warning!! Or is that just my poor technique? Probably!
We are not using Avo shocks - the set up is just as Neil had it, as far as I am aware, but Avo provide some support to the CSCC "Tin Tops" series so we have to put their stickers on the car.
Sumplug mentioned a "Turbo Quick shift", is this worth having, what does it consist of & where do I get one from?
Andy
Reply author: Andy97
Replied on: 25 Apr 2007 07:09:38
Message: Martin, why don't you bring your car out in the CSCC's "Tin Tops" series? They are good value races with 40 min practice & 40 min races for one or two drivers (so costs can be shared). What spec is your car - Turbos are not allowed. Have a look at http://www.classicsportscarclub.co.uk
Andy
Reply author: anonymous1
Replied on: 25 Apr 2007 10:27:03
Message:
Reply author: Andy97
Replied on: 25 Apr 2007 10:48:09
Message: Not sure, I'll have to check!
On to yet another matter, as I have trawled through the various threads on here I have come across some by "Unoracer" who talks about light weight alloy wheels and a wider track (with spacers); elsewhere I have seen reference to 15 inch wheels (mine are 14s, from a Lancia - the photos earlier, show the style). Is it possible/ worthwhile to fit lightweight 15 inch wheels & spacers and anyone know what make they might be and whether they might be availble second hand (the budget, as always, is limited!). Any guesses as to what the weight saving might be? Would the car need to lowering to compensate & how is this achieved?
I guess that i should just race the car as it is really, after all Neil did OK in it! I can't afford to spend a fortune on it, just for the sake of it!
Reply author: julian
Replied on: 25 Apr 2007 11:51:56
Message: The wheels you have are pretty good to start with - I've used the same design on the Punto in the past and they really do the job.
Without fairly serious expenditure you aren't going to find 15" wheels that are lighter than the 14"-ers you currently use unless you can find some secondhand wheels at a bargain price on ebay.
The main purpose for using larger wheels to allow the use of bigger brakes which of course increases the unsprung weight even more - on such a light car it starts to play havoc with the spring and damper rates.
I've been trying to quickly find a picture of Chris' car to see what wheels he is using but I can't find any large enough to make out the detail...
Reply author: anonymous1
Replied on: 25 Apr 2007 14:25:45
Message:
Reply author: Andy97
Replied on: 25 Apr 2007 15:09:53
Message: Don't know about the modified beam axle. In what way was it modified?
I accept that the gear change problems are probably down to me, but I have driven a lot of cars over the year and this one is the worst gear change of the lot. It feels like the linkages are trying to wrap themselves around each other. My wife used to have a road going Uno (before my time) & she reckoned that the Uno gear change was poor in that! I just thought that "they are all like that, sir" ! My racing partner reckoned that the gear change is like "stirring porridge", although he copes, and is faster, than me.
I have done a track day at Donington Park (very near home) in the car but that's about it & we didn't "test" as such. We ran the Yokohamas A0048s at 23 psi (cold) at Snetterton but that was a guess. I'll get used to it. Next time out is at Brands Hatch on Sunday 6 May, if anyone wants to come over and say "Hi".
Reply author: julian
Replied on: 25 Apr 2007 15:16:02
Message: If the gearshift is problematic in this respect I would take a look at the engine mountings as well. I can't make an authorative comment in this but I know from personal experience with similar applications that the alignment of the shifter to the engine is critical. If the engine can move around more than a tiny amount you will find that the gear change feels terrible, in the worst situations the engine torque can pull on the shifter enough to pull it out of gear.
Reply author: Martin
Replied on: 25 Apr 2007 15:28:24
Message: "The gearchange problem may just be me - I think that I am rushing it but there is a reasonably large distance for the lever to travel between 3rd & 2nd & when I was trying to be quick I don't think that I moved the lever far enough over to the left before trying to slot it into 2nd. That said the change does feel as though something is constrained in the linkage and that I am fighting it rather than a problem in the box itself." Then 7/10 times it will be the bushing on the remote change linkages, 2/10 times it will be a bent or sticking selector on top of the box. With those parts ('e' from Neil re box) the box should work well. For the clutch check all the mechanical connections from the pedal onto the thrust bearing in the bell housing - make sure the pivot arm is travelling easily on its bearing and not semi seizing (which happens after a long layup)..... You must be prepared to look after the synchros by a slightly slower change (by a blink of an eye), or replace them regularly and be prepared to have them brake-up occasionally. Crashing though the change is not advised, try and relax your wrist and fingers on the change but don't pause in neutral a slightly slower single move is what the Fiat boxes like best.... missing the gear costs too much time to risk it.. you don't gain time by snatching at the change so concetrate on thinking smooth not quick.
Julian Cann has a little bearing mod that brings the accuracy of the linkages up to about 150% of new. He's retired, but I'll try and nag him to get hold of one for you. Its cheeper and better than the TAS made quick shift (that Demon Tweeks for example used to list).... but if you want to spend out its the TAS quick shift that I think Sump is referring to. You'll need to mod the change postion for the TAS shifter.
AVO - Thank heavens you're not using AVO for the Uno - leave them for the road cruising/ slamming boys.
"I understand your point about being "charged by late breakers" - that's how I felt on saturday but I thought that I was still braking too early. The speed through the corner & the exit speed seemed good, though. The car does move around a bit but its not like my single seater which, when it decides to go, really lets go....and usually without warning!! Or is that just my poor technique? Probably!" I think the car's setup has been chenged from Neil's original - don't know if it was by him or not - ie to sell the car. It is more user friendly then the original by the sound of it - WHEN the original lets go it will instantly spin if you are off throttle.... if you lifted the throttle on a straight, and there was a camber, it would go on the camber alone, if you did nothing to stop it.... I mean really sensitive... but under acceleration it was a p ussy cat. To change the set up you would only need to limit the fluid to the rear calipers, and change the shocker set up so the rears were not locking out the weight transfer on acceleration.
For me racing saloons - sort have done it all and got the teashirt before, too many other commitments - including son who needs 'sponsorship' instead now. So I have big time conflicts.
I bring the Uno out for fun..... its a 1300 sohc, but with one carb. Just had the cracked head re-done last year, as it was sick. But another point I bang on about is the difference between the amature and professional approaches to testing. You need to test on different days to the races. Otherwise you find the race day practice session is a mad scramble to get the car fit to race on the day. With no chance to make final adjustments.... which is all the 40 mins practice should be about - fine tuning adjustments.
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 Note this one has polycarb side windows and some bonnet holes!
Reply author: anonymous1
Replied on: 25 Apr 2007 16:16:32
Message:
Reply author: Andy97
Replied on: 25 Apr 2007 16:34:12
Message: Folks
This is all good stuff, I am very grateful for the input & I have lots to check out. I will try to fit a new linkage to see if that improves things, and I'll check the engine mountings . I haven't checked the seam welding but the car has a massively stiff Rollcentre roll cage which is welded in & extends forward so the car is already pretty stiff. To be honest, I am very happy with the handling & if I can just improve the gear change (or my ability to complete the change!) so that I can be confident that I can get from 3rd to 2nd every time I'll be very happy with the car. I think that its performance (and fun) per pound is exceptional for then level of racing that I am in
Reply author: Martin
Replied on: 25 Apr 2007 16:54:46
Message: quote: Originally posted by sumplug
Pudding box will be down to worn linkages and bushes for sure. A new set will make a huge difference. Yes Martin, it was the TAS one. if JC can be nudged out of retirement, that would be the way to go!! Martin. Didn't you photograph Neils rear suspension mods? Or is that another car? I will talk more at Bristol about it.
Andy 97. Have you looked at the chassis to check all the seam welding is as good as it should be? That car has had a hard life, and so the chassis might be going weak. I would if you can, get the car corner weighted. This alone will make a huge difference on turn in. Does the car currently like turning one way, yet not another? Last question, has it got a brake bias bar? Oh and a servo?
Andy.
Corner weighting the car (with driver in) is always a good idea.... after polycarb windows & lightened doors.... my next choice would be to convert the shock absorbers to adjustable spring platforms and that makes the weightng a lot easier.
I have got photies of the bottom of every competition Uno I ever got near! Its just a matter of finding them in the several thousand pictures I have (and in which box after the house move!!)....
The 1300 production will have its brake master cylinder behind the pedal position in the bay - brake bar was only for the turbos coz of the inlet manifold proximity in a crash!
And its a turbo box.... see if I have a build photo on the pc...... the turbo has a different linkage for which the centre console is needed - as it travels under the dash within the cab.... the smaller engine capacities have a direct connection....
This shot is of my Uno 75 donor with the standard gear lever and linkage under the tunnel. The Turbo linkage uses holes on the small tunnel.......
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The standard angle for the steering column is very upright.... like this...
Reply author: randomspeedfreak
Replied on: 25 Apr 2007 18:06:50
Message: quote: Originally posted by Martin have got photies of the bottom of every competition Uno I ever got near! Its just a matter of finding them in the several thousand pictures I have (and in which box after the house move!!)....
boy do i remember that - at 10 years old 'should we gedd'im dad?' 'yeah, when hes not looking, just slip under and get a few shots of the rear suspension linkage'
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Editorial note - I was in fact too fat to get under Neil's race car - so I sent in the Sprog 1 to take pictures for the cause!!!
Reply author: Andy97
Replied on: 26 Apr 2007 09:36:42
Message: quote: Originally posted by Martin
The side/ rear glass and doors with poly carb. makes a big difference... but after a back window nearly killed (frisby-like) a marshal three years ago the MSA may have changed the securing rules again or banned the rear screen replacement (I can't remember).
Had a look in my Blue Book last night and can see no reference to poly carbonate in wind or back screens being banned. Just says that windscreen glass, if fitted, must be laminated. I expect that a poly carbonate wind screen would be a bit expensive but perspex side & rear window sets should not be too pricey & a worthwhile upgrade. Cheap tuning!
Reply author: julian
Replied on: 26 Apr 2007 09:50:44
Message: polycarb windscreen is all well and good but has some serious drawbacks.
1) it scratches too easily 2) it hazes when exposed to oil based contaminants (bit of a problem on the racetrack) 3) it doesn't have the necessary rigidity to hold its shape at speed unless it is made very thick and then requires careful shaping to avoid problems when fitting. 4) if it does pop out (which does happen) you have a surfboard sized frisbee capable of slicing anybody unfortunate to get in its way.
There are no bans on polycarb windscreens (or other windows) but it is not looked favourably on. You can be sure the scrutineer will check very carefully that it is very securely fastened (glued, screwed and clamped)
For side and rear "glass" polycarb is great - cheaper than custom made glass, lighter and easy to work with.
Reply author: Andy97
Replied on: 26 Apr 2007 10:55:31
Message: I have just spoken to Airedale Race Components (http://www.raceplastics.com) and they will do a set of front and rear side windows (with a drivers side slider) and a rear hatch window for £171 plus VAT which does not seem too bad. WRT replacing the rear hatch with one from a Mk1 Turbo, as advised earlier in this thread, I think, is there any difference in the rear window shape between a Mk1 turbo rear hatch window and a standard rear hatch window. I would not want to order the rear "glass" for the wrong version of the rear hatch!
I'll keep the front screen as it is.
Reply author: Martin
Replied on: 26 Apr 2007 11:42:06
Message: quote: Originally posted by Andy97
I have just spoken to Airedale Race Components (http://www.raceplastics.com) and they will do a set of front and rear side windows (with a drivers side slider) and a rear hatch window for £171 plus VAT which does not seem too bad. WRT replacing the rear hatch with one from a Mk1 Turbo, as advised earlier in this thread, I think, is there any difference in the rear window shape between a Mk1 turbo rear hatch window and a standard rear hatch window. I would not want to order the rear "glass" for the wrong version of the rear hatch!
I'll keep the front screen as it is.
Their polycarb windows come with a surface treatment so they will take a rear wiper - and you can order them individually.... some years they attend the Autosport & other shows, and give on the day discounts... (or used to for me & SFC).... it is more resistant to oil film but ultimately any sort of the wrong contaminant does for their transperancy......... think you need to specify the sliding side window and that's extra.
You need to make sure they stay in on impact (scrutineers look at this!)... I used wide chrome dome headed bolts on the outside.......
have just spoken to Airedale Race Components (http://www.raceplastics.com) and they will do a set of front and rear side windows (with a drivers side slider) and a rear hatch window for £171 plus VAT which does not seem too bad. WRT replacing the rear hatch with one from a Mk1 Turbo, as advised earlier in this thread, I think, is there any difference in the rear window shape between a Mk1 turbo rear hatch window and a standard rear hatch window. I would not want to order the rear "glass" for the wrong version of the rear hatch!
I'll keep the front screen as it is.
You're right - the turbo and standard windows are a slightly different size.... the turbo design is slightly bigger, I think, they are usually bonded in place too - as it was an ideal point to brake into the car......... but i know Airedale have supplied the turbo version in the past
Reply author: Andy97
Replied on: 26 Apr 2007 11:42:31
Message: quote:
The standard angle for the steering column is very upright.... like this...
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I am sure that the steering column is at a standard angle, ie a bit upright, but the feeling is exacerbated by the seat having been mounted quite low. A slightly shallower column angle and the possibility of a lower steering wheel & hand position would be desirable....but is it possible?
Reply author: unoracer
Replied on: 26 Apr 2007 12:00:12
Message: I seem to remember someone (if not Neil himself) telling me that the block was actually the uno turbo mk2 1372cc block with the normally aspirated head. It had a pair of twin 36 dcnf carbs on it when I saw it last (2002ish) As Julian says, the car is/was a well sorted car, so providing it has all the same mechanicals/set-up, it should need very little indeed. I have e-mailed you seperatly Andy about my experiences with gearboxes! I remember the car 'singing' its engine off merrily around Mallory, and it certainly sounded like it pulled well in each gear. Reports of bhp were 110 from neil, and 150bhp from Wez Evans who was owner for a while after Neil.
Reply author: anonymous1
Replied on: 26 Apr 2007 12:01:10
Message:
Reply author: anonymous1
Replied on: 26 Apr 2007 12:02:51
Message:
Reply author: unoracer
Replied on: 26 Apr 2007 12:07:41
Message: hi andy, same body shell, just different engine/box/suspension! Its gradually coming together thanks Andy. I literally picked up the engine yesterday. I have made a lot of changes on the car for this season. I will hopefully be out on the track for Pembrey on 12th and 13th May. Just bought some 36mm chokes for my twin 45's that will perch on the engine!
Reply author: Martin
Replied on: 26 Apr 2007 12:12:52
Message: If the rear suspension is 'free' then I could really 'go to town' on the axle design.........
technically it is a really heavy 'H' beam in semi-trailing arm form... imagine the front/ 'top' of the capital H is where the setup is bolted to the car, and the wheels' axle makes up the cross-beam on the H. If you are allowed to change this it could revolutionise the handling of the car..... and lose about 30kg.
The axle works by pivoting up and down where it is bolted to the car... lateral movement and front to back movement is only allowed to the extent that the bushes around the bolts will flex. (These need to be in top condition, and if you have several grades of poly-bush substitutes, this acts a bit like changing the rubber mounts on a rear anti roll bar).
Back to the axle - it can only move in one plane then... a bit like the blades on a pair of scissors. The top blade as the car body, and the bottom blade like the axle. Now Fiat introduce the rear spring part way along the two blades, sandwiched between the axle and the body, but in front of the rear axle, so that the shock absorber is mounted directly over the rear wheels on its own.
For a production design this is ok but heavily compromised on performance and over engineered in practice. They never needed to make the H beam axle out of such heavy gauge material. There 'll be hundreds of thousands of these things left around the world long after the car bodies have gone altogether. Its weight ensures the beam axles resistance to cornering forces is constant and nearly absolute. All it can do is retain its shape under load... and deform the spring/ mounting bush. Its a top candidate for re-engineering!
Reply author: Martin
Replied on: 26 Apr 2007 12:45:42
Message: quote: Originally posted by unoracer
I seem to remember someone (if not Neil himself) telling me that the block was actually the uno turbo mk2 1372cc block with the normally aspirated head...... I have e-mailed you seperatly Andy about my experiences with gearboxes!
I remember the car 'singing' its engine off merrily around Mallory, and it certainly sounded like it pulled well in each gear. Reports of bhp were 110 from neil, and 150bhp from Wez Evans who was owner for a while after Neil.
Chris, why don't you post up the basis of your email? Gear changes on the sohc cars is always interesting stuff.....
Particularly if you managed to fix it!!!!!!
Reply author: unoracer
Replied on: 26 Apr 2007 12:46:03
Message: Hi Martin- yep, by all means, I will do. I'm still in midst of carrying out mods but I'll post what I have sent Andy shortly..
Re rear beams : Totally agree on weight of these things. However, although it is heavy gauge material, they do flex quite badly on the race track. As you probably know Martin, the Fiat challenge guys often weld them up, by welding a plate along the length of the U-bend to effectively box section it. Others use a specially made rear torsion bar from adrian Miller Racing, which can be detached for wet weather racing. My regs don't allow rear beam to be replaced by a modified version. but not sure about tin tops regs.
Reply author: unoracer
Replied on: 26 Apr 2007 12:56:57
Message: copy of e-mail sent to andy ref my gearbox experiences. Note -only my opinions and personal experience!! On the gearbox side, I don't know whether you have the early 'strada' design box, but it probably is. the gearbox sychro design is not the best, although it is used overseas and can be made reliable with upgraded close ratio internals, but as you have said, the cost soon starts to spiral! I have been messing about a lot with gearing. For the first few seasons, I used a mk2 uno turbo gearbox and linkage, which will bolt onto your engine (still 1372cc in it??) The box in any case will fit any of the sohc (non fire ) design engine, ie 1290cc,1299cc,1301cc,1372cc,1498cc, 1301cc turbo, 1372cc turbo. The mk2 turbo box is the fiat tipo design, and is is a beefier stronger box than the mk1 strada box. I found this very reliable in my car, but you would need to at least change the crownwheel and pinion to lower the final drive, as it is very long geared for your engine.(But still not ideal for 1500 engine ratio wise) I also bought a B&M short shifter gear change when they were on offer at £40 from Eibach, and it reduces gear change throw by over 30% and makes a hell of a difference in gear change, so worth ringing Eibach and saying you will buy one 'if' they do same offer as they did previously!! I am currently having a lancia delta gearbox (strada design) fitted to my race car, and will find out whether the b&M shifter fits the different 'bottom change' linkage that it will use, and can let you know. I am no mechanic, but with past experience of messing about/learning, I suggest that you: a) find out what gearbox you have first. Does it have the gear linkage inside the car, that attaches to the top of the gearbox (which would confirm it is the later 'tipo' design box) or does the gearchange linkage run under the floor and attach to the bottom of the gearbox (suggesting strada type box)? Is it a hydraulic clutch? (again suggests tipo box) or cable (strada type) b) in either box's case, I would try to get someone to rose joint the linkage ends for you (will give more precise gears) or at least buy brand new linkage, as they do wear. c)Buy B&M shifter ( I will confirm to you whether it fits both strada type linkage as well as tipo box linkage over next week or so as its being worked on then). d) Ideally, you need to find out from Neil, what ratios are in your box, what final drive he was running, so you have an idea where you are going with it, and to make sure you don't start going backwards with progress! (It 'sounded' close ratio to me) e) Find out whether you are using tripod joint type drivehafts (only used on some strada boxes) or the bolt on Allen key type used on delta 1500's mk1 uno turbo and some bigger engined tipos. (You can see 6 or so allen key bolts where each driveshaft bolts to gearbox) The latter being beefier/stronger shafts for racing, but earlier ones still also used. f) Take your car out on the track and study what speeds you are doing in each gear at a given rpm. You can then look at a gear ratio calculator on a pc and get some idea of what gearing you have. (you also need your rolling radius of your wheel/tyre for this) I would also strongly advise that you always change synchros before you refit any box, as if its a used box, it is likely that they will be worn/crunchy! My delta box is the same as the strada/uno turbo mk1 casing, so it uses bottom change gear linkage and has clutch cable, and also the stronger bolt on equal length driveshafts. The reason I am using it is that the delta 1500 box had a much closer ratio box. All I have done is fit new 3rd and 4th synchros, and changed the crownwheel and pinion to an x1/9 one which gives final drive of 4.077, which in plain english should give me 120mph at 7500 rpm in 5th. There is a good website called Jupiterfiatpower.tripod.com which sell close ratio gear kits and other race parts, but again , you are looking at £500-£1200 depending on the box used.
Reply author: unoracer
Replied on: 26 Apr 2007 13:05:34
Message: By the way guys, did you know that fiat fitted a 1581cc sohc 'tipo' engine in unos as standard in Brazil!? You can also still buy a stroker kit in Marcedonia to increase the 1498cc to 1600cc. (However I believe most of the parts needed come from standard oem tipo 1600 parts!) If my class ever changes from 1500cc to 1600cc, I would look at doing this mod as it apparantly makes a big diffeence with increase in torque. Sorry we are digressing away from fibreglass panels Andy, but hopefully its all interesting stuff to read! On the subject of lightweight bonnets, I would be in for getting a mould done, albeit I'd prefer mk2 bonnet shape for aerodynamics, in Carbon fibre, so a few more interested parties could soon bring the price down!?
Reply author: Andy97
Replied on: 26 Apr 2007 13:08:52
Message: There are not that many regs in the CSCC's "Tin Tops" series:
"This Series is for Saloon/Hatchback Cars, under 2 litre, 4 cylinder (non turbo/ supercharged, except diesel)
Original silhouette to be retained. Original engine, gearbox, and induction system type to be retained. No Sequential Gearbox's under any circumstances. Class structure: Class A - 1601cc to 2000cc multi-valve and all Turbo Diesels Class B - 1601cc to 2000cc dual-valve and 1301cc - 1600cc multi-valve Class C - 1301cc to 1600cc dual-valve and up to 1300cc multi-valve Class D - up to 1300cc dual valve Class E - Invitation Cars to run on MSA list 1A/1B treaded tyres"
And that's it. The emphasis is on getting out & racing with the minimum fuss!
I guess that means that I could run a modified rear beam but I can't see it happening with my time & budget. I will concentrate on trying to get the gear change sorted & probably some plastic windows. If I had the money I might try the following: a straight cut gearkit with proper close ratios (first & second are very low & 5th wasn't used at Snetterton) & a reworked rose jointed linkage. A friend of mine has recommended such an idea. Does such a thing exist & anybody got any idea how much this would cost and where I might get that sort of kit from?
I am dreading the response to this question. ££££'s !!!!!! Oh well!
Reply author: julian
Replied on: 26 Apr 2007 14:08:50
Message: You should just about be hitting 5th at Snetterton down the back straight - if you aren't then either the engine is tired or you are simply not carrying enough speed through the corner - I know it is tricky and it is where the aforementioned handling traits come into their own.
My punto gets to about mid-peak revs in 5th and it only packs about 100bhp (on a good day) and all this on ordinary List 1a tyres. On the downside I don't have a speedo on board so I have no idea at all how this compares against the Uno in terms of actual speed an gearing. By comparison 5th gear is also needed for the main straight at Brands, the back straight at Silverstone, Mallory, Oulton, Cadwell, etc. The car certainly isn't that fast in terms of acceleration, especially when compared with the other cars in my series (racing a 1242 production spec Punto against touring cars and the like is never going to make the Punto look quick), that said when I first took the car out (at Llandow) the final lap times for the day were in the region of 55 seconds which is a very quick time on that circuit - the only car on the day to go faster was an Ariel Atom which should illustrate just how quick the Unos and Puntos are on the right track.
A straight cut gear-set is available from the likes of Colotti in Italy but it will set you back a good few thousand pounds to get it in your car. For most people that prices it straight out of the market but they have been known to let such things go cheap as they need space on their parts shelves.
A rose-jointed linkage could be fabricated relatively easily and there are plenty of places in the UK capable of such work. I'm pretty sure someone has already mentioned to me recently where to find one though.
Reply author: Andy97
Replied on: 26 Apr 2007 14:25:55
Message: The car seemed (relatively) quick in a straight line on both the back & pit straights at Snetterton and seemed to have good corner exit speed - most of the Maestros, Pugs & Metro GTi struggled against me & hence the reason I overtook 5 of them - so i don't think that the engine is tired, although I'll admit that my cornering technique could do with some work.
I was topping out at 7500 revs in 4th before changing down to third & then 2nd at the left-right under the bridge. Not sure of the speed, too busy to notice!
Thousands for gear kits is way out of the question!
Reply author: unoracer
Replied on: 26 Apr 2007 19:54:13
Message: If you have/can get hold of the '85-'88 uno turbo mk1/lancia delta 1500 bottom change box (strada design) which uses bolt on driveshafts, Jupiterfiatpower can supply a proper close ratio gear set for little over £500 plus shipping, which I don't think is bad. As I say, once you have compared what you have currently got, to the jupiter kit, you will only then know whether you have much to gain by getting one. (I don't think your current gearing is far wrong from what I saw of the car though!)
Reply author: Martin
Replied on: 26 Apr 2007 20:01:14
Message: Thanks Chris - thought you'd have done more up to date research and here's the proof!......
yes all but the last of the mk1 turbos carry the strada box..... equal length drive shafts from the mk1 turbo are vital too.....
and boxing in the rear axle is a good point.... for the FRC regs... I was leaving it out coz if your regs give you the chance I'd rather start again.
Jupiter are going from strength to strength.... and your quick shift price is about 25% of the TAS one! Jupiter reply to Tom: http://www.sfconline.org.uk/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=1532
Don't think capacity through stroker kit is the best way for the SOHC engines, unless you can get a twin cam head to go on.... it pays to keep these engines over-square..... and 1372 is about the ideal compromise... given the bore. The 1500cc X1/9 for instance just doesn't rev the same way as the 1300.... especially with race spec set ups....
think that's to do with the maximum chamber (&shape) and valve size. There is one guy we know that has access to the facilities to prove this.... from somewhere near Norwich.... and has recently researched the Uno Turbo version!
One of the last generation Italian taught tuners built an X1/9 using the Abarth Prototipo spec sohc - now owned by Gordan & Jan Mcgregor.... again it has the torque but doesn't rev as fast.... against this is the Anstead racing 1500 X1/9 which does a good job of revving hard. Geoff used CRS I think to build that engine. I'd really like to get these engines on a flow bench or dyno!
Forgot to ask Andy - what was your best lap time around Snetterton?
Reply author: unoracer
Replied on: 26 Apr 2007 20:39:44
Message: Yep, I have learnt a lot. Years of spinning off circuits out of control and breaking gear sticks in mid flight have helped me focus on these important issues! ;) I agree that the 1300cc engine does have the edge with revving capability, but the 1500cc is still very capable of revving to 8000rpm plus if built correctly. (I however still prefer reliability factor and shall limit myself to 7500-7800 me thinks!)
Reply author: Martin
Replied on: 26 Apr 2007 23:05:01
Message: Yes after 8000rpm the top end wear rate is massive...... I've had a look at a good few cams and followers off several race engines....
Yet the Trivellato engines in the seventies were doing more than this (eg the 128 Coupes in the ETTC)... they never say how frequent the re-builds were though!
Reply author: Andy97
Replied on: 27 Apr 2007 07:22:06
Message: quote: Originally posted by Martin
Forgot to ask Andy - what was your best lap time around Snetterton?
Damn. I was dreading that question but I guess that it was inevitable! Oh well.... My best lap at Snetterton last Sat was 1 min 36 whilst my team mate had a best of 1 min 32.9. Last October my team mate qualified the car in 1 min 31.4 before the clutch went. I know that Neil could do 1 min 26 somethings on slicks (we are on Yoko A0048s). My excuse is that I was in a sh!t fight as I overtook 6 cars in the first few laps & then had to defend against a 2 litre Maestro for 3 or 4 more laps before the driver change. Nigel ran in clear traffic!! Oh, and I had a full tank of fuel, and I had the aforementioned gear selection difficulties and we'd guessed at tyre pressures and we hadn't tested and it was my first time at Snet.........!
Am I sounding too defensive??!! Probably just lack of talent!
Reply author: julian
Replied on: 27 Apr 2007 07:58:47
Message: You'll be disappointed to know that Neil never had such luxuries as a clear track. Auto-Italia ran a class system in which the Uno fitted near the bottom but the grid was reversed so the more powerful, quicker cars started from the back. Typically these were 300bhp Alfa 75 ex-tourers. You end up spending as much time dodging faster cars coming through from behind as you did blocking the mid-range pack. Ultimately you scored points amongst your class so there was nothing to gain in blocking outside the class but it often gave the edge in keeping your direct competitors a bit further back.
All that said Neil came very close to an outright win at Brands Hatch on one occasion which takes an incredible amount of doing!
It isn't lack of talent Andy, just lack of practice and experience with the car.
Reply author: anonymous1
Replied on: 27 Apr 2007 10:04:56
Message:
Reply author: Andy97
Replied on: 27 Apr 2007 10:39:01
Message: quote: Originally posted by sumplug
B*lls of steel or braveness edging onto craziness required . In all seriousness, smooth driving with correct use of brakes and small steering input is the fastest way round. Seesawing at the wheel, and braking through corners just slows you down imo. Perhaps Andy if you look at some of your competition, and find how long they have been driving their race cars, will show how much each driver/car has to improve. I think you will find quite a few have reached their limit, where as you are just starting out. You know there is several seconds to be gained, which will wipe most of the opposition out and put you right up the positions!! Practice, practice and more practice, and suddenly it all clicks[you hope!], and you and the car suddenly start lapping quickly!!!!
Andy.
Don't think that I have "b*lls of steel or braveness edging on to craziness", unfortunately, but I know that I am getting a bit better and even with my lap times I was quicker than a few of the bigger engined cars and raced well/ overtook several of them. TBH, it was probably my best race performance, albeit my first in a saloon. I have done about 20 races in single seaters over the last 4 years (Monoposto 1800 & Monoposto 2000 in a Vauxhall Junior 16V and a Vauxhall-Lotus) but have always been at the back and have not had the confidence to really push - when I did, I ended up spinning! I have more confidence in the Uno and it seems to suit me more than the single seater - perhaps because, like most people, my experience is mostly FWD these days? I'm sure that the lap times will improve further with some more seat time. Can't wait until Brands Hatch on 6 May.
As an aside, this thread has wandered way off Glass Fibre panels! Perhaps the thread should be re-titled "Andy's Race Uno" or something similar and I'll keep it updated with news of each event.
Reply author: Martin
Replied on: 27 Apr 2007 10:49:20
Message: quote: Originally posted by Andy97
quote: Originally posted by Martin
Forgot to ask Andy - what was your best lap time around Snetterton?
Damn. I was dreading that question but I guess that it was inevitable! Oh well.... My best lap at Snetterton last Sat was 1 min 36 whilst my team mate had a best of 1 min 32.9. Last October my team mate qualified the car in 1 min 31.4 before the clutch went. I know that Neil could do 1 min 26 somethings on slicks (we are on Yoko A0048s). My excuse is that I was in a sh!t fight as I overtook 6 cars in the first few laps & then had to defend against a 2 litre Maestro for 3 or 4 more laps before the driver change. Nigel ran in clear traffic!! Oh, and I had a full tank of fuel, and I had the aforementioned gear selection difficulties and we'd guessed at tyre pressures and we hadn't tested and it was my first time at Snet.........!
Am I sounding too defensive??!! Probably just lack of talent!
Yes - too defensive.... you are where you are.
Its still one of the best ways to judge what's going on! And when you make changes try and get sector times too if the track is set up for it.
The first main step is to see if your lap times are consistent (bet you've had this sort of conversation with someone in driving school & your single seater)
Once you are delivering accurate lines each time - and your lap times are within 0.1 of a second each lap, every lap, then you have a platform to move your driving and changes to the car. It also helps to have another driver in your car.... at this point, go out with some one else and follow him around the circuit... see what he does differently.... watch I mean really watch the class leaders lines etc the same way.
Only at this point do you have a baseline to test from. And the changes come from driver and car alike. You then can put down about 50 timed laps on a test - with a range of changes planned.... and with notes/ times in a book you have the platform for a class win.... on a budget.
This is the cheapest and quickest way to improve.
The alternative is the way of the bodger - its actually more to do with 'don't bother me with all that, I'm here to have fun (& adrenalin kick)'.... in which case it will take you 2 - 3 seasons to reach the same point. (That's usually about 6-10 times the time and cost by the way - so much for 'I don't have time to test'.)
You can hear the difference in the paddocks.... the Way of the Bodgers is all about a junky's reaction - 'if only I had more power, I could catch x and y' - who always are just ahead of me... etc. They also spend money on the the most expensive mods - the engine first normally. There's always someone just ahead.... and more money to spend - some spend a lot more.
In fact in club events the car's next four seconds off the lap time has nothing to do with more power... Driving skill, the best tyres, adjustable suspension and weight saving - then diff/ ratio swopping, better ignition/ ecu have little to do with more power! And the next four seconds off your lap time is about accuracy and practice, with a bit of car tweaking.
Hope your mobile has a stopwatch function!!
Reply author: Martin
Replied on: 27 Apr 2007 11:17:36
Message: As an aside, this thread has wandered way off Glass Fibre panels! Perhaps the thread should be re-titled "Andy's Race Uno" or something similar and I'll keep it updated with news of each event.
Better still why don't I give you a project topic in our Project Area??
Reply author: Andy97
Replied on: 27 Apr 2007 11:43:03
Message: quote: Originally posted by Martin
As an aside, this thread has wandered way off Glass Fibre panels! Perhaps the thread should be re-titled "Andy's Race Uno" or something similar and I'll keep it updated with news of each event.
Better still why don't I give you a project topic in our Project Area??
Happy with that.
Andy
There, tis done http://www.sfconline.org.uk/forum/forum.asp?FORUM_ID=29
Reply author: Martin
Replied on: 27 Apr 2007 12:11:35
Message: Great Andy -
by the way I need a bit of feedback on my comments above re your lap time consistency.... then I can grade comments according to where you've got to.... rather than assuming to start with basics ...
you have to say if all this already done with......
Reply author: Martin
Replied on: 27 Apr 2007 13:15:17
Message: I think Neil's original setup on this car was quite deliberate - to get through traffic fast he could exploit his third or fourth row from the back grid position (ahead of the fastest big engined cars behind him).
This setups main advantage is its agility and speed from before the apex... I'll repeat it allows you to choose your line and attack (be full on it) from before the apex of any sharpish corner.
At the point in the turn when most of the club drivers are waiting for the apex to arrive.... so he could build a rapid buffer of six or so cars ahead of the big engined stuff behind. I should go and look at lap times one day. And in the damp/wet there is little modification needed.
But mine is no good for track days - as I can never convince the marshals that I HAVE to accelerate or spin in a corner.... whether I'm supposed to overtake there or not..... and I prefer it on slicks.
Reply author: Andy97
Replied on: 27 Apr 2007 14:19:54
Message: quote: Originally posted by Martin
Great Andy -
by the way I need a bit of feedback on my comments above re your lap time consistency.... then I can grade comments according to where you've got to.... rather than assuming to start with basics ...
you have to say if all this already done with......
Martin
My lap times were: 1 min 40.8, 38.0, 38.1, 38.3, 36.0, 36.6, 37.2, 36.8, 37.4
My partners times were: 1 min 37.7, 35.9, 34.3, 36.2, 35.1, 32.9, 33.7, 33.7, 33.4, 33.7
Traffic was definately and issue in my stint!! Not sure why Nigel dropped 2 secs a lap half way through his stint.
I have had some instruction over the winter in my 944T & so I am working on my technique & consistency. I can recommend Simon Mason (www.motorsport-tuition.com), by the way.
Reply author: nyssa7
Replied on: 27 Apr 2007 20:26:07
Message: Just a couple of small points:
Julian - Neil Smith did score an outright win in the Uno at Croix in 2002, strangely in the second race that weekend I beat him for the first time since Silverstone 2000 where the Y10 had out-powered the Uno. But he was limping round with the manifold hanging off
At Snetterton Neil would have had little trouble getting in clear laps, many of the AI races were a little under-subscribed and Snetterton is a long lap
Martin - Neil almost always started from pole, the reverse grid only operated by class, so that class E was at the front followed by DCBA, but within class you lined up fastest first. Hence in 2002 at least Neil probably started every race on pole and led many of them at the end of the first lap (there used to be a prize on offer for that)
Reply author: Andy97
Replied on: 30 Apr 2007 07:29:37
Message: quote: Originally posted by Martin
I suspect most of the major mechanicals are semi-exotic so the gearbox may be an Italian race item.... and then parts of the engine may also be an expensive import.... poor gear selection may be to do with mixing standard and exotic parts.
Can you post a picture of the steering wheel position, and how it is attached to the dash frame.... it doesn't sound like a standard setup....
I have checked the gear box spec from an old e-mail from Neil. It is running a standard uno turbo geabox with a lower ratio final drive from a 1.0 litre. We think it also had a 5th gear from a mk 1 lancia delta turbo which is an arbarth lower ratio gear kit, apparently.
A picture of the Uno steering column angle can be found here:
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2213961140075034447QFtLMD?vhost=rides
and a photo of the rest of the interior and cage is found here:
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2420156280075034447iJKZsy?vhost=rides
Reply author: Martin
Replied on: 30 Apr 2007 10:45:06
Message: I've got Julian Cann to sign on again - given him a new password - so I'll email him to get some comments.......
Also thanks Andy for the lap times.... could your partner tell you what happened halfway through his stint then? Its usual that someone he was following gave him a couple of good ideas on line etc..
When I have time - I'll tease out all the comments mixed up here for your Project Forum page.
Thanks Trev - for the Neil race info - so NJS must've disappeared off into the distance!
This Uno setup he championed sort of makes sense though, but it is a balancing act, and only works really well on slicks as it relies on the instant re-sticking of the rear end on acceleration.... you cannot stop it spinning with opposite lock ... it do-n't work! Now I've said that to every one of the twelve guest drivers in the 'yellow peril'... without exception they nod, go out and spin it. So I conclude Neil dialed out this behaviour before selling his car... eventually to Andy.
Now its a different game, and I really need to go see how the car behaves in corners for real.
Reply author: Andy97
Replied on: 01 May 2007 16:59:39
Message: quote: Originally posted by Martin
I've got Julian Cann to sign on again - given him a new password - so I'll email him to get some comments.......
Also thanks Andy for the lap times.... could your partner tell you what happened halfway through his stint then? Its usual that someone he was following gave him a couple of good ideas on line etc..
When I have time - I'll tease out all the comments mixed up here for your Project Forum page.
Martin, thanks for transferring some of the content, here, to the new "Uno R project section". It will be useful (hopefully to others, too) to be able to follow the different topics that cropped up in this series of posts in a series of seperate topic threads. Time consuming to achieve, though, I expect.
It would be good to hear Julian Cann's opinions on some of this, too. I have also been in e-mail contact with "Unoracer", and his advice & experience is valuable. I am currently trying to find out all I can about close ratio gear boxes from Colloti and Jupiter but I have not yet had the small premium bond or lottery win that I'll probably need to procure one of those!!
Reply author: nyssa7
Replied on: 01 May 2007 21:17:18
Message: Heavily suspect the gearbox is standard Uno Turbo, I remember Wes and Jo running all round the NW the night before the race at Oulton in 2003 looking for a box, sure they said Uno Turbo at the time
Really would be surprised if Neil dialled out the behaviour of the car before selling. Don't recall if Jo spun it or not, I know Emma (Mrs Neil) tried it at Donington, and she spun it
Reply author: Andy97
Replied on: 02 May 2007 07:00:17
Message: I haven't spun it yet - obviously not trying hard enough!
Reply author: nyssa7
Replied on: 02 May 2007 07:04:13
Message: Or maybe you're driving technique is the correct one, only time I ever recall Neil spinning it was his third ever race at Oulton, but it was very wet that day
Reply author: Andy97
Replied on: 02 May 2007 09:26:54
Message: quote: Originally posted by nyssa7
Or maybe you're driving technique is the correct one, only time I ever recall Neil spinning it was his third ever race at Oulton, but it was very wet that day
Crikey, I don't think that anyone has ever suggested that my technique might be correct! I used to spin my old single seater (an FVJ) too frequently!
I do know that my lap times are well down on Neils - perhaps I need to be much nearer the edge of the envelope to get close to spinning, but I will also be way quicker.
Reply author: julian
Replied on: 02 May 2007 11:41:54
Message: Spinning these Unos is usually down to a small number of driver errors
1) Panic braking - if you have to do then you need to left foot brake and keep some throttle on to overcome the front slowing faster than the rear. Even just lifting off can do the same (see below)
2) Off-throttle oversteer - these cars can be really viscious in this respect, if there is *any* yaw as you come off throttle the car will start to spin. You can either left-foot brake as a precaution or be very quick on the throttle to pull the front forwards. As Martin has already pointed out opposite lock will not rescue the situation, if you are on brakes this can actually make it worse as you are levering the rear through the steering rather than turning the front wheels relative to the direction of travel.
3) Erratic driving - a degree of manhandling (from my experience) works wonders with an unstable car like this as you can make the car exceptionally agile provided you are ready for the consequences. If it is just erratic driving for to get the wheels squeeling then it is going to end in tears. Coming from a single seater background you will probably find that your style of driving is relatively smooth (even if it wasn't always smooth enough) and you aren't pushing the handling envelope of the Uno where it is vulnerable. Despite the rather forceful cornering technique this is all about grace rather than brutality and more akin to "drifting" than touring car driving.
4) Unexpected yaw input - in the case of FRC and other tin-top series there is a degree of contact and when a car is unstable it has obvious consequences. Because the cars are always on edge the opportunity to spin a competitor just by rubbing a rear quarter under braking or cornering is so great as to be irresistable or perhaps unavoidable. It only takes one car ahead to make a small mistake and suddenly everyone behind is in a situation where they cannot readily avoid the incident without spinning or hitting someone else. If someone taps the rear or the car runs over some pronounced camber or even just a slippery kerb while the engine is not under load it can have much the same effect.
If the front of the car is always pulling forward (relative to the rear) it is very hard to spin one of these cars until you exceed the limits of grip at the front. Being relatively low power this is a thankfully rare occurance but it does still happen - most often after the mid-point of a race when the tyres are beginning to overheat and the level of traction is dropping off quite dramatically. If you run on slicks it is exceptionally hard to over-heat the tyres, even 1b tyres are very resiliant but 1a tyres are another matter altogether. More than about 10 minutes will see them start to go-off, more than 15 minutes can leave you struggling for grip, 20 minutes is getting into tyre suicide territory.
Reply author: Martin
Replied on: 02 May 2007 11:50:58
Message: quote: Originally posted by nyssa7
Or maybe you're driving technique is the correct one, only time I ever recall Neil spinning it was his third ever race at Oulton, but it was very wet that day
This is cobblers - it takes a specialist technique to keep an unstable car on line through a corner.... not "the correct one" - if you haven't tried a car with this sort of set up then you don't understand at all. The difference is glaring and very obvious to anyone driving!
Repeat Summary: If you have a grossly front heavy small car, and you're forced to keep the car's standard suspension setup (a la Auto-Italia production classes) it is a very good way to dial out the inherent understeer.... but all unnecessary in a series like Andy's. Given the ease with which the changes can be made (see post above) it would make sense to re-set the car to a more stable setup for sale/ none production formulae.
Having recently tried Unos from FRC's regs, and other series like the Combe Club championship, I'd say on sticky tyres Neil's set up is atleast as fast in any conditions, and faster in some. But again, the chance to re design the rear axle/ suspension would give the race uno the cornering speed it deserves (and cars like the old racing minis got to 20 years ago).
Reply author: nyssa7
Replied on: 03 May 2007 07:12:39
Message: Allow me to clarify - correct driving technique for the car. There is no such thing as correct driving techniqque to be applied globally, every car is different. I merely suggested that maybe Andy is already driving the Uno in the correct fashion for the Uno
Reply author: anonymous1
Replied on: 03 May 2007 09:30:58
Message:
Reply author: anonymous1
Replied on: 03 May 2007 09:32:20
Message:
Reply author: nyssa7
Replied on: 03 May 2007 19:21:58
Message: quote: Originally posted by sumplug
His track times suggest otherwise Trev. Much more to come!
Andy.
Doesn't mean he's not driving it right, just too slow! I've not seen Andy so this is not a criticism or critique - lap times can be different for a number of reasons:
different lines different cornering speed braking too soon not braking hard enough getting back on the throttle at different times etc etc etc
bloody complicated, this race car driving malarkey
Reply author: Andy97
Replied on: 04 May 2007 10:45:02
Message: I have been out with an instructor a few times over the winter/ spring at Silverstone and Cadwell (albeit in my 944T) & I have improved. Honestly! I am probably suffering from braking too early and too hard for the quick stuff and not late or hard enough for the slow stuff. However, instruction at Silverstone eventually meant that I was able to nail (for example) Stowe by the afternoon session & go (quote by the instructor), "as quick as it is possible to go through there in that car, on those tyres" (unquote). I was quite pleased with that.
My biggest problem(s) is that I lack a bit of self belief and I lack consistency so 6 corners out of 8 will go really well and I'll screw 2 up or, I'll do a few reasonable laps and then have one horrendous lap which costs me big time and confidence. That said, the Uno inspires more confidence than the FVJ or FVL do but I just don't have much seat time and have never raced a FWD car until last week. Mind you, the times might not have been great at Snetterton during my stint but I was coming through the back of the field to take 5-6 bigger engined cars so I didn't do too bad, and back to an old theme (excuse), I reckon that I was easily losing a second and a half on every lap with gear change problems. That may take time to fix (which I have) & £ (which I don't!).
Reply author: julian
Replied on: 04 May 2007 11:52:40
Message: The consistency aspect comes from two seperate directions, the first is the environment (primarily the car) itself needs to be consistent to within a small factor on each lap. If this is changing constantly then consistent laps will be hard to achieve. The second direction is the driver, not necessarily from driving skill but from mental discipline.
If you are concentrating on where to brake, how much to brake, where to turn, etc. then you aren't racing so much as just getting around the track. It is easy to make mistakes in this mental mode but it all adds up over time to create a sub-concious compartmentalised process. Once you get to this mental state you find that instead of working on where to brake you are working on where to pass (or defend). You already do this for the basic driving skills (if you don't then I suspect you would find driving on the road almost impossible). To accelerate this process there are mental exercises that can help (it sounds like a joke but toys like the brain training software on the nintendo pocket console are quite remarkable in how they allow ) but ultimately you need seat time on each circuit to program your brain, the key here being repetition - do it enough times and you cease to perform the action conciously.
The tricky gearshift is a prime example of where you are having problems though - normally the shift is subconcious, you don't think about how to do it, in fact I would bet that you don't even think about which gear you are selecting, you just do it. When it goes wrong though you are forced to perform a mental mode switch and all of a sudden your concentration is divided between the track, the cars around you and your own car. In terms of mental processing it is a big deal and can cause a big upset to concentration, it is also quite significantly slower. Subconcious processes are significantly faster than concious ones - your general mental agility will be the distinguishing factor far more than the more obvious physical reaction time. Exercising your brain every day (doing crosswords, mental arithmetic, etc.) is a proven method of improving that agility factor even though it bears little relation to driving.
If you want to get really clever I would recommend spending some time on the more realistic driving games that have proliferated on games consoles and computers. I am hesitant to describe them as simulations but the same mental processes are going on although there is always the danger of the invincibility factor creeping in, this is to a degree good as overcoming the "fear" factor on the circuit is vital to getting the lap times down, when it comes to driving in the wet it pays to be slightly cautious but if you are just plain scared you need to get out of the car before you cause an accident. For those of us who have raced on a circuit in the wet we know just how much faith you have to put in the other drivers around you to behave in a consistent manner inspite of the conditions as you simply cannot rely on visual clues. A stray driver in these conditions is a recipe for disaster.
The interesting thing is that in the wet more than any other you are driving the circuit on automatic. The concentration needs to be on what is going on around you rather than where the circuit is. Anyone putting in fast lap times in these conditions has either achieved that mental discipline or is just plain suicidally brave.
Reply author: mike
Replied on: 13 May 2007 22:15:16
Message: hi andy,if you want information 0n your race uno neil smith runs his own garage in pershore,worcs; tel.01386 555523 im sure he would give you the spec.
Reply author: mike
Replied on: 13 May 2007 22:29:13
Message: please ignore last post i am new to this game, didnt realise there were 6 pages on this topic.
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